I completely understand it when people tell me they dislike Bangkok; it is such a love/hate city that the majority of people are unimpressed from arrival.
I personally hated Bangkok when I first arrived for a visit in 2006 and couldn’t have exited quick enough.
In fact, it wasn’t until I had lived there that I truly fell in love with it; almost twenty years later, and Bangkok is still one of my favorite cities in the world.
It just takes a little time and love.
Bangkok is a difficult city to get accustomed to and most people are here for a day or two before heading to nearby islands or to the jungle.
But there is a lot to do & see in Bangkok: cheaply, expensively; uniquely; or outside. Bangkok has it all.
As you plan your trip, in this article is my itinerary and suggestions for how to tackle this sprawling, chaotic city in an off & on extensive way so that you can peel back the onion that is Bangkok and personally discover why I love it so much.
Bangkok Itinerary: Day One
The Grand Palace, Wat Pho, and Wat Arun
The first stop in Bangkok should be the Grand Palace (Royal Palace) and Wat Pho, home of the reclining Buddha and massage school. The Royal family does not stay in the palace (it’s only for official use) and you can’t go into any buildings, but the Grand Palace grounds and open temples are worth visiting. The site is beautiful, and the craftsmanship in the architecture is stunning, and worth the visit alone. Go early to beat the crowds.
After that, walk down the street to Wat Pho and the reclining Buddha (and the famous Golden Buddha). It is the largest reclining Buddha statue in the country at 46 meters long (150 feet). The Wat Pho area takes up a city block so it’s not going to take you long to see the statues, but you could certainly spend an hour just wandering the maze-like temple grounds.
Next on your journey, cross the river to Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn). It’s a stunning Buddhist temple on the Chao Phraya River across from the Grand Palace that’s beautiful enough to put on Thai currency. It has one main spire and four smaller spires, and is so recognizable it’s on money. From the top of the spire, you’ll have panoramic views of the city. Wat Arun is my favorite temple in the city.
If you’d like a full tour of the temple and palace, I recommend booking a guided tour. You’ll get to learn about the history of each temple and the palace from an expert local guide who knows all the ins and outs and can answer any questions you might have, allowing you to have a much richer experience.
Note: When visiting these holy places, please make sure to wear clothing that covers your legs and shoulders, revealing clothes/ inappropriate clothing is disrespectful. That means no short skirts, no tank tops, nothing that shows your stomach, no ripped pants, and no flip-flops.
Take a River Cruise
A tour of the Chao Phraya River is a beautiful and enjoyable experience you shouldn’t forgo. But do not buy an overpriced tour (which is about 2,000 THB) take the water taxi up and down for roughly 35 THB. Start at the central pier, go to one end and return. Voila, Tour complete for about an 1/80 of the price!
Tour More Temples
Bangkok is full of amazing temples. Hire a tuk-tuk driver to take you around for the day to check out the temples. This is usually the most cost-effective method and often the quickest method of seeing the majority of temples around Bangkok. You can even split the fair with other travelers to save costs. Here are two of my favorite temples:
Wat Saket – The Golden Mount has a huge, 100m high, 500m wide chedi (mound-like structure containing a Buddhist reliquary). It is a pretty temple and my favorite in the city because the stunning golden temple and great views of the city from its summit. At the base of the mountain is an overgrown cemetery for plague victims from the 18th century.
Wat Benchamabophit – Currently on the reverse side of the 5-baht coin. The only material imported from Italy is the white marble accent that was used to strengthen the building. It combines both Thai and European architecture and harbours exquisite designs. You can also find, in the courtyard, the 53 Buddha images that depict every mudra (gesture) and style in the history of Thailand. Thus, it is a nice visual representation of how Buddha has been depicted over time in Thailand.
Just remember to tell your tuk-tuk driver not to take you shopping along the way. Tuk-tuk drivers are often paid a commission for taking customers into certain shops. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been taken to a shop (on my first internationally tour in Thailand on 2006 I went to shop and realized half way through the ride that I was on a shopping tour!) I did see a lot of temples on that trip too! Just make sure you let him know you do not want to go on the shopping tour!
Visit Khao San Road
The backpacker capital of the world and a road you must visit (along with Soi Rambuttri)! You will find lots of bars, shops, street food, international restaurants, vendors, locals, and activities day and night. It’s also frequented on the weekends by Thais. I personally like Soi Rambuttri as this is a little quieter, but Khao San is a great place to sit outside and meet other travelers. It is much more commercial than it was and a lot less “backpacker”, but it’s still worth a visit and you’ll still find lots of travelers there. Just don’t expect the Khao San of old that you always hear about or see in movies like The Beach.
Bangkok Itinerary: Day Two
Check out the Floating Market
